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What kind of glue you use? I wonder so plz let me know about that.

Just curious...how did you paint the Z ...was it stenciled in or some sort of decal?

How in the shit does someone come across this

The Rectangle with v cut out at bottom represents the rounds are in Bandoliers mainly for infantry use and sustain fire role GPMG's usualy have link ready to feed from the box

I'm upgrading and customizing my Heng Long Tiger 1 early, but I'm thinking of getting an Andy's HHQ Tiger 1 early and swapping out parts to make the HL Tiger a real stunner. Do you know if I do that will it work? Will the parts from the static kit fit onto the HL adequately enough?

Saludos desde el Perú es una preciosidad

What do you use to make it shoot?

Is it just me but why does it feel like the T90 drives better than the M1A2?

HengLong I'm sure would love to have you working with them. This is such an awesome rebuild.

So, *that’s* why the Empire of Japan considered invading New Zealand !..It wasn’t to get their claws into any of the sheep, but, rather, to seize the blueprints for the ‘Bob Semple’ !…

Great posting..... I have Several 'Tamiya' tanks with this vinyl track and I'm glad I found you.... 1) Acrylic paints, huh..... I Just saw a video posting showing using 'Humbrol' enamel paints, then letting it dry and using a Clear Coat on top BEFORE doing Any weathering/coloring.. 2) Nice to see that you show some of the "mistakes" that you experience while doing this posting....( one using your hands and fingers removing paint from bottle...Yeck!! 🤢😉) 3) LATEX Paint(s)??!! Which brand.....more importantly what is the PSI on your airbrush to push that paint through? What needle size do you use? 4) The use of hand-brushing and airbrushing is Great....just smearing the paint (licking {!!}) might be un-necessary. 5) OVERALL..... I have to admit, though different, I Like this method....simple, no Un-necessary paints, washes, pigments and the results look "good" for basic weathering of these types of model tracks.👍👍👍 I Hope that you answer some of the comments I made....I getting ready to paint my 'Hobby Boss' Leopard 2 AVLB with Their vinyl tracks ( it is my first tank build in decade!! ) Especially the PSI question and brand of latex paint. Lastly, saw you Facebook Channel with other pics and Those of the M1 look good as well!! 👍👍👍

Do the long red m 46 3:56:32

-I believe only eleven photographs exist of thousand 8:42

How about an M4 tractor kit? 24:02

It’s great you restored this kit, such an interesting vehicle from Australia. As a former M113 driver a note to all with future builds is that’s not how the front engine hatch works. the trim vane is seperate and is made from plywood and opens outwards toward the front And isn’t part of the engine hatch. also the hull is made from aluminium which doesn’t rust

When I was in the Army in 1985 assigned to 24th Mechanized Inf. 4th Bn. 64th Armor located at Fort Stewart, Georgia. When I arrived our battalion had the M60 A3 tanks. Around 1986 we received the new M1 IP tanks. The tanks came the "chevron" type tracks. At that time the "guild horns" were called center guild.

It takes a lot of patience to do that. That's why i dont do small model kits.

Great job but why don’t you just make a complete rear end instead of having to hack it all up! You would have way more sales due to simplicity!

Bla bla

Excellent build.

and after all that, you will accidentally backup into tree in your garden... and cry :)

Go toe to toe with tamiyas on the future

brilliant work, great job on the detailing, you've done your research, one small correction (nothing to do with the vehicle) the commander's hatch on top is in a cupola (koo-pu-luh), as opposed to copelah (cop-el-ah), otherwise, excellent job

The vehicle from half life

The BEST armortek model I’ve seen, the paint work is incredible

The three "steps" just under the turret, could those be deflectors? It doesn't look like there is room for German type deflectors on the upper hull in front of the turret. Given the angle of the hull, deflected rounds might be directed under the turret and those angle piece may give protection? Just an idea!

This kits suspension is horrible. It has no line up pins or mounting points at all for the wheels, you just kind of have to glue them on to the bottom chassis to a point that again has no pins or even tabs. This is the only kit I have seen in the dozens of tanks that I built in this scale that had no exact spot to mount the bogeys to. No wonder Dragon later released a new tool to replace this kit. Was not happy at all with it.

You should do a 1/6th scale t6 medium tank

Great job with this M41 Walker, this will be my next armor kit with motorized action as well.👍

The turn idlers can be made to rotate by mushrooms VZ V

Is there any sound?

I have the henglong leopard 2 pro version winter camo from motion rc,it's sick and runs great,had mine months and it runs perfectly,no spanner to it so to speak.

The designation for us old timers is the M40, 106 mm Recoilless rifle. I carried and fired the Foot powered 90 mm Recoilless rifle as my entry weapon in 1970 and an M-1911 as an up close personal defense weapon in South Korea. I didn't know it then, but that would remain the case for the next ten years. Beautiful historical example.

Very nice, awesome build. But believe it or not.... it will be a trophy shelf queen... on a custom plaque/base, dedicated to the events of a certain theatre of the Gulf War. Outstanding. Thank you.

John Great video and super job on build. Surprised the deer lasted that long with the noisy tank advance. Mike

Excellent build I have just bought one as I don't have enough stress in my life clearly and want to try my hand at all of the cabling! lol

The reason the coaxial machine gun has the vents at the turret face is to suck in air when the gun is fired, witch helps the tube suppress the flash. An DU versions of the Abrams were sold internationally because lve seen them when I served in the Australian Army. Witch soon will be retried to make way for the M1A2 SEP V3.

Good videos. And yes the customer changed the stick configuration. I seen that option in my new M1. Maybe it was my king tiger, but I seen it in the manual.

Is barrel recoil turned off or not installed on this model? I know in the video you left the inside of the turret alone, so I don’t know if you know this or not. Mine came with a barrel recoil mechanism built in at the factory, which is why I was wondering why this one wasn’t recoiling. With all the options on their newer MFU cards it’s possible it’s just turned off, but I’m not sure. I was watching to see the recoil because my biggest complaint about the HL Abrams (besides the grass thing, which probably can’t be helped) is that the barrel is built in a way that the barrel recoils into the larger part of the barrel, instead of recoiling as one unit, if that makes sense. I’m currently working on a fix for this, and was wondering if anything had been done to address that on this model.

Haha, glad to see someone else struggling in the grass with this model. My nickname for this tank is “The Lawnmower”. Wet or dry, if the grass is over 1 inch (maybe you could get away with 2 inches) you’re going to be pulling grass out of the drive sprocket all day long, not to mention the rest of the drive gear when you’re done for the day. I have a Taigen Tiger I, Tiger II, and Sherman, and none of them do this. I can drive them in 3-5 inch grass with relatively little problem, and little clean up. While I think it has something to do with the tank being rear wheel drive (all my other tanks are front wheel), it could just be the design of the tank itself. I have an acquaintance who used to drive the real thing for a decade or so, and he said that if they ran over a bunch of C wire, it would wrap itself around the drive sprocket and push out to the side. When he showed me pictures it looked exactly like my Abrams after driving through tallish grass. At this point I don’t drive it through grass unless it is on the short side, or I am just cutting straight across. Forget about turning.

That was fun watching. Very nice build, John 👍👏👏👏

Press and hold G button while pulling the left stick down and it will drive like any other HL tank. The G and K buttons control a whole host of functions in combination with stick movement now. They are outlined in the 6.0/6.1 control manual. The stick combo I gave you is on a special addendum sheet separate from the control manual.

I have found from experience ( being a 4x4 rc truck person), that with tanks, they don't play well in grass. Straight ahead: no problem. It's turning. Best to keep moving forward when making turns, a wide turns work better in grass than super tight. Moss from oak trees is real bad, get wound up in bogies, and tough to cut. In firm dirt, loose dirt, is where it loves and handles so realistic. Thanks, nice video

Сериалы презираю. Но этот с огромным удовольствием смотрю. Спасибо!

Looks Great.

looks awesome!

You should do a 1/6th scale m6 heavy tank because why not😂

Just started my Mato Sherman, I intend to drive it a lot so will stay with the metal parts. One thing i happened to notice on your model: the fuel spill is not accurate, the rear of the Sherman runs down slope so spilled fuel is not running in a straight line to the side but slightly backwards and than along the side down. For the rest: nice job. Very nice job.

John, Outstanding man! This is incredible.

Oh man, this is fantastic!